Tuesday, 18 April 2017

Terrain: Quick Ruins

In this post I will go through how I have made quick generic ruins suitable for various games including frostgrave & Bolt Action.

I started with an empty box of dishwasher tablets.

With a pair of scissors I cut out "ruin" shapes, and some window holes.

There you have it 4 ruins in less than 10 minutes, that's a result if you ask me! These could be used as they are on the tabletop straight away but I wanted to add a little more depth.

So, using a glue gun I glued the card to 2mm PVC sheet that had been cut to size. I then cut the ends of "lolly sticks" and snapped them in half to get a broken/jaggered effect, then glued them down using the glue gun. I also added small pieces of balsa wood as window ledges.

I then sprayed the ruins black, then sprayed them grey.

I painted the wood with Besty Brown (72.043).
I applied PVA to various points and added large ballast, I then spinkled small ballast over the piles.

The wood was washed with Army painter Strong tone.
Areas where the Besty Brown had spread over were touched up with Cold Grey

There you have it, simple card ruins suitable for various systems

Tuesday, 14 February 2017

Miniatures: Bolt Action - Soviet BA-64

I'm still struggling to get back into the swing of posting blog updates, but I feel this one is required to aid my fellow wargamers!

So I'll be looking at the Soviet BA-64 armoured car for Bolt action 

The model

The model consists of 8 parts: 1 Resin vehicle, 1 resin turret, 4 metal wheels, 1 MMG, 1 light with the optional extra of a crew member with a selection of arms.

The detail on these parts are as good as you'd expect for an armoured car (lets be honest they aren't exactly ornate), and typical for Warlord.

Building of the model

The resin model had some flash that needed to be trimmed and cut, especially on the wheel nubs, but once that was removed and the metal flash had been trimmed, it all went together nicely.

The issue I had was the pieces below, the part on the left was clearly the MMG, however the piece on the right stumped me for ages. It looked like a small MMG like I had when I built my T34s, but I couldn't work out where it went. After several searches I realised that it is the light! so my wargaming friends, if you're as unaware as I am about parts I can tell you this is a light.

There is a small hole on the main chassis for this to go into, but it wasn't quite deep enough so I had to drill it to allow the light to fit.

The metal wheels have indents in them that fit nubs on the chassis.

I found the MMG frustrating to place, as it kept falling to one side, so it was a case of holding it in place while the glue dried.

I didn't glue the turret so it could be removed during the game.

The crew member that came with the model seemed oversized to me, so I didn't use him.

There we have it, one BA-64 ready to roll out onto the battlefield.

Thursday, 26 January 2017

Painting: Ancient British Warriors

So when I started painting these I found the concept of tartan or other traditional "Celt" colours a little daunting and as these were going to be used more for Frostgrave or other non-Hail Caesar games I decided to go with plain colours.

I have since watched the new "Asterix" film (with my 6yo honest) and feel inspired to try another techniques, so watch this space...in the mean time the below is how I painted what I did.

As ever the colours used were mainly Vallejo game colour unless stated otherwise

Dark fleshtone (72.044) all over
Tan (72.066), on raised areas
Dwarf Skin (72.041) over most of the Tan areas

Earth 72.062
Strong tone

Bestial brown 72.043
Strong tone

Cold grey 72.050
Dark tone

GW foundation paint Macharius solar orange
Orange fire 72.008
Strong tone

GW foundation paint Iyanden darksun
Gold yellow 72.007
Soft tone

Spear shaft
Plague brown 72.039
Strong tone

Earth 72.062
Strong tone

Leather: Shoes, Belt etc
Charred Brown 72.045
AP Dark Tone
Bestial Brown 72.043

Swords & spear heads
Chainmail 72.053
GW Wash: Nuln oil
Drybrush: Silver 72.052

Jewelry (Gold technique was used for the horn)
Bronze 72.057
GW Wash: Nuln oil

GW Wash: Nuln oil
Drybrush: Silver 72.052

The bases were covered in PVA then sand was liberally added, once dry the sand was painted with Black (72.051), then Charred Brown (72.045) and then static grass was applied.

Ultramarine blue 72.022
AP Dark tone
Drybrush: Magic blue 72.021

Red base 
Strong tone
Drybrush: Blood red 72.010
Camo 72.031
Strong tone
Drybrush: Sick green 72.029

British battledress (FoW paint range)
Strong tone
Drybrush: Earth 72.062

Tuesday, 10 January 2017

Dropfleet Commander Kickstarter - the wait is over!

Well I'm back! it's been a long time since I last posted, essentially I decended into a bit of a sulk as I waited for my Dropfleet commander KS pledge to arrive, and although I worked on other projects including: 

  • Imperial Guard Kill team 
  • Horse Archers for Lion rampant
  • Some Ancient Britons to use in Frostgrave 

I didn't feel the urge to write about them, lost in the growing frustration of waiting my KS, as it turned out I was among a handful of orders that got lost and as such had to wait until the new year to receive it.

Don't get me wrong I haven't had to wait for DFC models; my friend Graeme received his pledge as one of the first and as such he gave me his KS "freebies" for the Scourge and Shaltari in exchange for my UCM & PHR Freebies (when I was due to get them). Also in the excitement of DFC shipping I bought a Scourge starter from a friend who backed at the highest pledge level and had enough starter sets to sell one off without issue.

With these models I have played two games, both of which are mediocre, but maybe this was tainted by my anger and frustration of not knowing what was going or when I was going to get my stuff.

Really this post is essentially nothing more than a list of what I got in a hope to invoke the passion for documenting my painting process and general blogging again.

Opened KS box

Sprues for the 2 player starter set: Scourge top, UCM bottom

Shaltari Starter fleet add on

Freebies: 1 cruiser and Frigate sprue for each race.
UCM dog tag and credit at bottom of picture
The thing to note about the models is that they are made from HARD plastic, now the reason I emphasize on the "hard" part is these are unlike any plastic I have ever used.
This is not a plastic to be cut using your old faithful, glue and paint encrusted hobby knife, this plastic requires a new sharp precision knife. I have also found that when cutting the Shaltari from their sprue some of the "spines/transport nodes" snap off.

Flight stands, dice and tape measure
Flight asset add on (fighters,bombers & torpedoes) 

Activation cards add on

Quick reference guides, battlegroup cards, building instructions and flight dial stickers for the "Freebies"

2 player set: Rulebook with vertical sleeve, battlegroup cards, quick reference guides, building instructions, flight dial stickers, cardboard game tokens and two fold out map sheets.
The 2 player set above came all shrink wrapped together which was very helpful; I'm not sure if that was a KS pledge organisation or if the retail 2 player set comes the same way, but I hope for everyone's sake that it does.

Well that will do for now in regards to the DFC KS but I hope to continue with my blog and that it's helpful to you as it is to me.

Thursday, 29 September 2016

Painting Bolt Action: Soviet Weapons team

So after dealing with my infantry, and finding a scheme I was mostly happy with I have painted up my weapons teams.

Below is a summary of how I did it.

Undercoat of Army Painter Desert Yellow
  • Flat Earth (70.983) for the webbing
  • Cam Olive Green (70.894) for the helmets
  • Luftwaffe camo green (70.823) for canteen, grenades, Mortar, Maxim MMG and magazine box
  • Tan Earth (70.874) for the bedrolls and bags
  • Beasty brown (72.043) for the gun stocks, handle of the knife and some hair
  • Black (72.051) was used on gun barrels, ammo casing, boots and some hair
  • Gunmetal grey (70.863) for the guns, followed by a black wash
  • Gunmetal (72.054) for the bullets of the MMG and the mortat shell
  • GW Mephiston Red was used on the Soviet Stars on the hats and magazine case
  • Army Painter Strong tone wash over the majority of the model, but not the flesh.
  • Uniform drybrushed with Plague Brown (72.039)
  • Helmets, mortar and MMG are drybrushed with Gunmetal (72.054) to give scratched look
  • Boots are drybrushed with Stonewall gray (72.049)
  • Webbing with Leather Brown (72.040)
  • Bedroll and bags with Khaki (70.988)
  • For the flesh I took my time compared to the infantry and used Dark fleshtone (72.044), then Tan (72.066), then Dwarf Skin (72.041)
  • Some AP dark tone around the face to act as facial hair (this is applied then dabbed off with a tissue)
  • Matt Varnish (70.520) all over

Saturday, 17 September 2016

Painting: Bolt Action - Soviet Infantry

So for a little while now I have been working on my soviet infantry.

This has certainly been a learning curve and I'm still not quite there; essentially I had ideas of where I wanted to go but not quite how to get there, so trial and error have been my only option.

I have followed the same initial process for all 40 models:

Undercoat of Army Painter Desert Yellow

Then following the guide on the soviet paint set, which are from the Vallejo Model color range:

  • Flat Earth (70.983) for the webbing
  • Cam Olive Green (70.894) for the helmets
  • Luftwaffe camo green (70.823) for canteen, grenades, molotov bottles 
  • Tan Earth (70.874) for the bedrolls and bags
then outside of that paint set I used the following from the game colour range
  • Beasty brown (72.043) for the gun stocks, handle of the knife and some hair
  • Black (72.051) was used on gun barrels, ammo casing, boots and some hair
  • Gunmetal (72.054) was used on the catch of the canteen, blade of the knife/bayonet, anti-tank grenades and drybrushed on the helmets
  • The boots were drybrushed with Stonewall gray (72.049)
The fire of the molotov was painted with a base coat of GW Iyanden Darksun, then Sun yellow (72.006), then Bloody Red (72.010) around the edge.

That was the basics after that things didn't stay as consistent as I wasn't happy with the results:

On some models the gun barrels were painted with Gunmetal (72.054), then washed with GW Nuln Oil. I wasn't keen on this as it resulted in overly shiny guns. So I tried Gunmetal grey (70.863) which is much darker and provided a better look for the weapons, this was then washed with GW nuln Oil. This can be seen in the flesh pictures below.

The flesh on most of the models were painted using Bronze flesh tone (72.036) then a wash was applied which was then drybrush/highlighted with Elf Skintone (72.004) but this gave the models too pale skin, everyone looked scared or drained so multiple different techniques were tried for the remaining few that hadn't been through this process.

I tried:
  1. Tan (72.066), then Dwarf Skin (72.041), then Elf Skintone (72.004) on 3 models
  2. Tan (72.066), mix of GW red wash and Army painter strong tone in the gaps, then Dwarf Skin (72.041) on 2 models (courtesy of this guide: http://www.talkwargaming.com/2015/03/tutorial-how-to-paint-bolt-action.html?m=0) although the mix ratio wasn't quite right so ended up a little more red than I had hoped.
  3. Tan (72.066), Dwarf Skin (72.041) soft tone on 2 models
  4. Bronze flesh tone (72.036), soft tone, Elf Skintone (72.004) on 2 models
Processes 1 - 3 had improved results but I still want to find a quick process for painting flesh, as these processes are too long winded in my opinion for infantry. I don't mind spending time on characters and specialist units but for standard infantry I want something that can be done quickly and easily.

Further to the issues with painting flesh I was unhappy with how I washed the troops; 20 were washed with Army painter dark tone, although this looked good it meant that any highlight didn't work so well unless it was bright and a bright highlight didn't work (various paints were used from plague brown to bone)

The next 20 were washed all over with AP strong tone, this produced a much better look that allowed the uniform to be drybrushed with Plague Brown (72.039), the bed roll with Khaki (70.988) and the webbing with Leather Brown (72.040).

The bases! the bases almost drove me to insanity! By all accounts they shouldn't be that difficult to add sand to a base and paint it but I encountered two issues;
one some of the positions (in particular the laying down models) were difficult to cover in sand, resulting in some locations getting missed.
The other issue was having to paint the sand on 40 bases! this took ages and lots of black paint.
Going forward I will cover the bases with sand, spray black and then glue the models (I know that's a bad idea, so maybe I'll just do it to the laying down ones and invest in some childrens acrylic black paint so not to use my own "expensive" model paint)
After this I added some static grass and some foliage.

So overall, what I feel is working is:

Undercoat of Army Painter Desert Yellow
  • Flat Earth (70.983) for the webbing
  • Cam Olive Green (70.894) for the helmets
  • Luftwaffe camo green (70.823) for canteen, grenades
  • Tan Earth (70.874) for the bedrolls and bags
  • Beasty brown (72.043) for the gun stocks, handle of the knife and some hair
  • Black (72.051) was used on gun barrels, ammo casing, boots and some hair
  • Gunmetal grey (70.863) for the guns, followed by a black wash
  • Strong tone wash over the majority of the model, but not the flesh.
  • Uniform drybrushed with Plague Brown (72.039)
  • Helmets drybrushed with Gunmetal (72.054) to give scratched look
  • Boots are drybrushed with Stonewall gray (72.049)
  • Webbing with Leather Brown (72.040)
  • Bedroll and bags with Khaki (70.988)
  • Matt Varnish (70.520) all over
  • Gloss Varnish (70.510) on Molotov Bottle
So now I need to find a quick, yet effective flesh painting process...

Thursday, 25 August 2016

Stuff to report but nothing to show...

Despite working on various projects none are in a position to be shared, so as I'm off for a well deserved rest next week I thought I'd do a quick update post as to what I've been up to recently, that I thought might be of interest

Dropzone commander escalation league:
The DZC league I started in February that was due to finish in May finally finished this month!
The league was great at first, but as it went on it did get a little tiresome as some players were unreliable.
Lessons have been learnt and I know to handle things differently if I do another.

3k DZC game!
That's right! I took part in a 3k game of DZC. I used my Scourge and was defending a town, against the UCM.
It was an interesting setup as I controlled the Scourge, and three of my friends controlled the UCM.
In the end it was a scourge victory.
We played on a 6x4 board, half of the board was densely populated with buildings, with a river and two bridges.
The Scourge had a 3ft deployment zone and the UCM a 1ft deployment.
We played up the length of the board
Scourge were deployed as "blips", the theory being that the UCM knew they were there but they didn't know what units. The blips were revealed if in los of a UCM unit, if a UCM FM went over or if they the UCM opponent chose to fire at one he's roll on a table
1 - Nothing discovered, shot failed
2-5 - unit discovered
6 - all units within 6" of the intended target are discovered.

The mission was for the UCM to secure and hold two bridges (a focal point each), the landing pad (focal point). A sub-mission was for the UCM to discover and reveal the three pieces of Intel hidden in three building these were shown as normal.

We also disregarded several rules:
1. All UCM transports started in their deployment zone.
2. Scourge unit that brought transports didn't have to start inside.

It was a great, albeit long, game, resulting in a Scourge victory,

We soon plan to play the reverse layout, so looking forward to that!

On the project table:
500 point soviet force: All built, only the infantry in the position of being painted (post about those coming soon)
Ghar starter set: Battle suits almost complete (post about those, also coming soon)

So as I said, next week I'll be on holiday, so all going well I should have a painting post the week after