Friday, 15 April 2016

Painting: Dropzone Commander - Shaltari: Spirit Gates

While I was away on business I also painted my spirit gates but I have only just got around to writing up the process.

Much like the Yari I apologise for the change in photos and again I hope it doesn't distract from the painting process too much.

As ever paints described will be from the vallejo game colour range unless otherwise stated.


The spirit gates were under-coated white using Halford white primer, then liberally washed with Army Painted Strong tone.


Much like the Yari I definitely didn't paint over the wash with bonewhite and went straight to drybrushing with Dead White (72.001).


Next I painted the fins and transport crystal with Electric Blue (72.023)


Then I painted the transport nodes with Chainmail Silver (72.053), then carefully coated with GW Nuln Oil. Once the Nuln Oil dried I lightly painted with Silver (72.052).


Then tidied up the white areas where blue and silver had accidentally come into contact with it, after which I drybrushed GW Ceramite. Which really made the models pop however when drybrushing the fins it highlighted the imperfections.

Next I painted the canopies Black (72.051). Once dry I did a little tidying around the canopies and coated all over with Matt Varnish (70.520), followed by Gloss Varnish (70.510) which was applied to the black canopies and transport crystal.

Although I am generally pleased with the result I am a little disappointed as I feel the paint didn't cover the imperfections of the model as much as I had hoped.

Thursday, 7 April 2016

Miniatures & Painting: Dropzone Commander - Shaltari:Yari

Sorry for the absence of a post last, this was because I was on holiday. Since being back I have given my blog a little organisation and have added pages for easier access to posts., I hope you find it useful. I know I have.

So in addition to my spirit gates I have some Yari to expand my 1k escalation force; I felt that the scout option was the right way to go.

As these are tiny models I will combine the miniature review with painting them.

The Packaging

As per previous posts these models come in a blister, which contains the models, firm foam and a card inlay

The models:

The model consists of 3 parts; vehicle body, turret and weapon. You get the choice of both Microwave gun and AA, but you can only build one type per model (unless you can work some wonder with tiny magnets).

The detail on these models is typical Hawk quality, which was a nice relief following the disappointment with my spirit gates.

Building/Painting the models:
This section/post type has been combined as I didn't want to finish building the model until they were fully painted so not to obscure any part  of them and to get an all over paint job.

As ever paints described will be from the vallejo game colour range unless otherwise stated.

You'll notice that these pictures are different to the normal format, this is due to being on a business trip when painting them. I hope it doesn't distract too much from the progress pictures.


The Yari were under-coated white using Halford white primer, then liberally washed with Army Painted Strong tone (I know I must have shares in the stuff). Now this stage was an absolute arse; due to the numerous holes, and indentations. I had to apply coat after coat of strong tone directly into those areas.


This time I definitely didn't paint over the wash with bonewhite and went straight to drybrushing with Dead White (72.001), which as you can see created a dirty white, so this stage shouldn't be skipped (especially when lots of strong tone has been used)


Here I painted the fins with Electric Blue (72.023)


Next I painted the weapons with Chainmail Silver (72.053), then carefully coated with GW Nuln Oil. Once the Nuln Oil dried I lightly painted with Silver (72.052).


Then tidied up the white areas where blue and silver had accidentally come into contact with it, after which I drybrushed GW Ceramite White including the microwave gun silver area but avoiding the AA guns silver areas.

Next I painted the canopies Black (72.051). Once dry I did a little tidying around the canopies and coated all over with Matt Varnish (70.520), followed by Gloss Varnish (70.510) which was only applied to the black canopies.

There we have it, four complete Yari: 2 with microwave guns, 2 AA. These are fiddly little models that go together nicely and although painting them meant painting most of my fingertips (and using lots of strong tone in the initial stages). I have learnt not to skip stages if I want a cleaner looking white...but maybe a dirty white works for scout units.

Tuesday, 5 April 2016

Painting: Wasteman - Cybjorgs

A while back, prior to the DZC escalation league, I painted up my Wasteman Cybjorgs. Here is how I did it:

Paints mentioned are from the Vallejo Game Colour range unless other indicated.


First the models were given a good overall undercoat using Halfords Matt Black. Once dry the areas of skin were given several coats of Tan (72.066) to provide a consistent coat.


Next the skin areas on the models were drybrushed several times with Dwarf Skin (72.041)


Then the skin areas were lightly drybrushed with Elf Skintone (72.004)


Next the areas of skin were given a liberal coat of Army Painter Soft Tone. Now I don't usually use Soft Tone opting to use a darker wash more, but for these Cybjorgs I didn't want to lose too much of the skin tone I had already built up, but I did want to darken the folds in the skin, and I feel that soft tone worked well.


Once the soft tone dried I mixed Pale Flesh (72.003) and Elf Skintone (72.004), then drybrushed it all over the skin areas


This picture covers a lot of different stages:
The metal areas were painted with Chainmail Silver (72.053), then washed with GW Nuln oil before painting with Silver (72.052)
Tubing was painted with GW black, & Cold Grey (72.050) then washed with Army Painter strong tone
The wires were painted with Bloody Red (72.010), Electric Blue (72.023) & Sun Yellow (72.006)
The weapons were painted with yellow then Sun Yellow (72.006), then Moon Yellow (72.005)
Their tongues were painted with red and their sensors with Bloody Red (72.010)
Weapons were painted with GW black


The guys on the left and in the middle were painted similar to the guys above:
The metal areas were painted with Chainmail Silver (72.053), then washed with GW Nuln oil before painting with Silver (72.052)
Tubing was painted with GW black, & Cold Grey (72.050), then washed with Army Painter strong tone
The shoulder pads, "cups" and weapons were painted with GW black

The guys on the right was my first attempt at NMM, not the greatest but I was relatively happy with it and too lazy to strip to start again - more practice is needed for sure.
Starting with Cold Grey (72.050), then attempt at Stonewall Grey (72.049) before highlighting with Dead White (72.001)


In this final picture you can see that the areas around augmented parts have been painted red to reflect the scarring. This was a mix of Squid Pink (72.013) & Bloody Red (72.010). This was initially too bright and looked like fresh wounds which isn't what I intended so I drybrushed Elf Skintone (72.004) over it.

I then drybrushed the black areas with Stonewall Grey (72.049).

I added hazard lines to the "crushing claw" of  then dabbed Gory Red (72.011) over the "teeth".

Finally I varnished them with Matt Varnish (70.520)

Wednesday, 23 March 2016

Miniatures: Dropzone Commander - Shaltari: Spirit Gates

With April approaching it meant that my DZC escalation league was moving to 1k games and as a result I needed to expand my force; so to start I purchased some spirit gates.

Here is my personal review of these fast small gates.

The Packaging

As per previous posts these models come in a blister, which contains the models, firm foam and a card inlay


The model

The model consists of 3 parts: main body and two fins.

It is with a heavy heart that I make the following comments: the detail on these is....mediocre at best. It appears that I got a bad set; the detail is blurred and bumpy with a slightly rough feel. There was a flimsy film like flash, which, although easily removed (by rubbing my fingers over it), was all over the model. If this hadn't come in Hawk packaging and from a know distributor I'd say this was a knock off.....bad day in quality control. Hopefully when painted it won't be noticeable.

Building the model


With only 3 pieces in total these didn't take long to build.

The fins don't fit as snug as they do on the plastic Eden gates but it didn't take long too glue into place either.

So in no time these were built, shame about the quality but I expect a lick of paint will cover the issue.

*forgot to add that the flight sticks wouldn't fit in the base without slipping through so I glued some flight pegs (bought previously) to prevent that

Saturday, 19 March 2016

Painting: Dropzone Commander - Shaltari: Coyote

Sorry for the delay in this week's post, it's been an absolutely manic week! not helped that I have been stricken with man flu. But I have found a moments peace and respite from man flu (courtesy of Beechams (other medicines are available)) to be able to write this post.

So I open properly (aside from the apology) with exciting news: I am now officially a Hawk Talon! So if, dear reader, you are local to Berkshire then I can officially provide demos/assistance with events etc.

Anyway, enough of that and on with the painting. So as mentioned in my last post; March is the addition of a commander to starter set for the DZC escalation league I'm running. With my Coyote all built it needed to be painted ready to face my foes.

As ever the paints used were Vallejo unless stated otherwise.


I started with a solid undercoat of white primer from Halfords


Next I coated the model in Army Builder Strong tone. Despite painting an entire starter set this way it still makes me nervous for the outcome, stupid I know! As you'll also see one of the gauss cannons fell off during the application of the strong tone, this was quickly glued back on using super glue. In fact it stuck better this time than originally.


Now here I have to hold my hands up and say that I believe I may have skipped a phase from the scheme I used on my starter set; I don't remember using bonewhite, so I'm going have to assume that I didn't (especially as there isn't any photo to confirm) so it seems I went straight to drybrushing Dead White (72.001) several times.


Here I painted the command module fins, the area between the fins and leg pads Electric Blue (72.023)


This photo is the culmination of all the following stages:

I painted the gauss cannons, leg joints, bottom points of the legs and the small nodes around the top and bottom of the fan at the back of the model with Chainmail Silver (72.053), then carefully coated with GW Nuln Oil (except the gauss cannons those were liberally soaked). Once the Nuln Oil dried I lightly painted with Silver (72.052).

Then tidied up the white areas where blue and silver had accidentally come into contact with it, after which I drybrushed GW Ceramite White everywhere avoiding the areas painted silver.

Next I painted the canopies Black (72.051). Once dry I did a little tidying around the canopies and coated all over with Matt Varnish (70.520), followed by Gloss Varnish (70.510) which was only applied to the black canopies and gauss cannons.

I'm pleased with my commander, he looks the part and the command module is magnetised so it can represent the "eject" special rule.

Friday, 11 March 2016

Miniatures: Dropzone Commander - Shaltari: Coyote

In month two of the dropzone commander escalation "league" that I'm running, we are building 750 points lists, which is to consists of the starter set plus a command vehicle. This is to introduce the aspect of CV value and command cards.

With this in mind I have chosen a Coyote as my command vehicle and in true "Turno's wargaming blog" style I will review the model.

The Packaging


As per previous posts these models come in a blister, which contains the models, firm foam and a card inlay

The model




The model consists of 9 parts: 3 legs, 2 Gauss cannons, 1 leg-to-body piece (probably has a better name but I'm unsure), 1 command module, 1 cockpit and the main body.

As ever the detail is amazing, and beautifully reflects the Shaltari fluff.


Building the model

9 pieces...that's all, that will be easy.....how wrong I was! Now this could easily have been the type of glue I used but whatever it was this model was a pain!

Firstly the legs, they are on a ball joint which is great for being able to position how you wish however I just couldn't get them to stick; one would stick so I'd move on to the next then the first one would fall out, this practically slapstick situation continued for around 30 minutes, until all the legs finally stayed glued!

Secondly the gauss cannons; these also have a ball joint connection but I found that the connection socket was just that little bit smaller than the ball joint so caused a bit of an issue when it came to gluing. In fact it too fell off...several times.

The cockpit went on without issue and the command module would easily fit. I have since magnetised the command module so it can be removed during play if the commander ejects.

Overall beautifully detailed model but a pain to build. Now to get painting...

Thursday, 3 March 2016

Miniatures: Wasteman KS


So this week, I'm taking a small break from DZC and I am looking at the miniatures that came with my Wasteman Kickstarter (KS) pledge.

The Packaging



My Cybjorgs (Left) and Lunar Coalition (Right) posse packs came in their retail packaging (minus the dice).

The packaging is a large blister that just pops open at the back (similar to Hawk Wargames), however I didn't realise this until after I had cut the top off one of them.

The blister contains 5 models, 5 stat cards for the models, 5 bottle caps to mark activation, 5 bases, foam, and an inlay sheet with details to the thunderchild website. There will be dice in the retail sets, it's just at the time of dispatch Jason hadn't received the dice.



My add on to the KS was some Hazmatadors. These came in a plastic bag with the relevant stat cards and bases.



As with any good KS there were freebies and in this case my freebies consisted of Radical Trevor, Lowbot, Bagman, and Xam. Again these came the relevant stat cards and bases included in their plastic bag. Radical Trevor also came with his own bottle cap


The Models/Building the models:

Usually I would have two sections in a miniatures post one for how the models look and the other on how they go together but as these are mostly single piece models there is no building so I'll cover the usual aspects of "building the model" here.


Cybjorgs: Four of the five models are single piece, the fifth consists of two parts: body and weapon arm.

These are hefty pieces of metal; very reminiscent of early GW models. It makes a nice change to have such a heavy model in my hand.

The detail is really good, this is my first experience of Thunderchild Miniatures and I am very impressed.

I did, however have some serious mold lines on the two larger models, which took some time to remove. Also there was a large tag of metal on the drill of the fat one which I couldn't remove however due to it's positioning I will paint it like a hunk of flesh.....unless that was Jason's intention in which case it's brilliant!


Lunar coalition: 5 single piece models. Much like the Cybjorgs, these are detailed and have a good weight to them. They had very little flash to be removed.


Hazmatador: Three single piece models. These are light metal models, but again nicely detailed. Two of the models didn't have any flash to be removed however the third guy on the right had a large mold line on the first which needed to be removed as well as some flash under the arm.


Xam, Lowbot, and Bagman: Single piece light weight metal models with a good level of detail, and little to no flash.


Radical Trevor: For a single model he's got a bit of weight to him, which as I've mentioned is a good thing. Radical Trevor has lots of detail about him and I can certainly see him becoming a centrepiece for people's posses. With no flash to be removed.